Watch Collecting Buyer’s Guide - £5,000-10,000

It’s hard to think of a more competitive space in the luxury watch market than the £5-10K range. Big players like Rolex and Omega have their elbows out in this price bracket, but many smaller contenders are fiercely competing for your hard-earned cash. Collectors have never been more spoilt for choice, with numerous options spanning different styles, sizes and materials. We’ve outlined five contenders for your consideration.  

OK, let’s get the obvious choices out of the way first. You’ve probably seen it in every what-to-buy guide sans ‘the best Submariner alternative’ articles, but its place is undeniable. The Crown’s brand-defining watch represents an appealing blend of reliability, robustness, timeless looks, and a level of versatility that makes it suitable for any occasion. To add a point of difference, we’ve highlighted the ‘No Date’ Sub, which in our opinion delivers a more appealing symmetrical dial and is faithful to the very first examples of this instantly recognisable diver. £7,700

The other conspicuous pick in this segment is the Omega Speedmaster Professional. One of the true greats of modern watchmaking, the ‘Moonwatch’ has a timeless design that has changed very little in over 65 years of production. Originally created for motor racing,  it’s become synonymous with space travel and exploration thanks to the long association with NASA and numerous appearances on the wrists of astronauts. With some key updates to the bracelet and movement introduced in 2021, this is the Speedy for the 21st century. £7,400

It’s fair to say that dressy pieces are experiencing a resurgence after years of living in the shadows of their more brawny sports watch counterparts. While the Reverso is a sports watch by definition thanks to its association with Polo players, the elegant art-deco lines lend themselves to a more dressy style by modern standards. We like this Tribute Small Seconds reference launched in 2021, thanks to its blend of historical design cues and contemporary sunray green dial.  If the good looks aren't enough for you, a few winds of the manual in-house calibre 822/2 will confirm why JLC has earned its title as ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’. £8,800

A benchmark for pilot’s watches, IWC has an unrivalled history when it comes to building Fliegers. With an extensive range to choose from, we’re leaning heavily into the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Top Gun for two reasons. Firstly, it’s a Big Pilot, but in a more wrist-friendly 43mm case that strikes a nice balance between comfort and presence. The second is the use of ceramic which, apart from its hard-wearing qualities, is also particularly relevant for IWC being a pioneer of this scratch-resistant material. £8,850

Who doesn’t love a panda dial, am I right!? Add to this a distinctive angular case design, ladder bracelet and one of the most respected movements in the business, and it’s easy to see why this Zenith is such a strong contender. For collectors out there that prefer more modest dimensions, the good news is this A384 Revival is sized right in the Goldilocks zone at 37mm. £7,900